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Hours earlier than Vetements’ one-day-only Hong Kong pop-up opened final month, a whole lot of streetwear followers queued up outdoors the venue, hoping to rating unique merchandise, from emblem rain macs to magnets and mugs.
The model, which achieved stardom in a temporary three years, has stored such occasions extraordinarily low-key worldwide. The venue for the Hong Kong pop-up, for instance, wasn’t revealed till solely someday earlier than the occasion. Such an strategy, nevertheless, has gained Vetements a cult following, particularly among the many millennial era.
“This trend is [becoming] a cultural phenomenon,” says Kelly Wong, Lane Crawford’s director of fashion. “With the growing importance of social media, celebrity seeding and more, streetwear has spread like wild fire. Everyone wants a piece of it. It has created a ‘limited only – buy now or it’s gone’ sense of urgency for consumers.”
High fashion brands have lengthy been referencing streetwear and concrete clothes, from Vivienne Westwood’s punk-infused looks to John Galliano’s mixture of city parts and couture-esque aesthetics. Social media and modern way of life have additional boosted streetwear’s relevance amongst as we speak’s youth.
Streetwear brands the likes of Vetements, Off-White and Supreme have constructed a robust fan base in recent times. Their large influence on younger shoppers has attracted the eye of luxurious brands, which have been leaping on the bandwagon to provoke collaborations. Some have even tapped streetwear expertise to lead their artistic group.
Luxury fashion homes have additionally been borrowing inspiration from streetwear and concrete fashion to provide you with collections which emphasise athleisure parts.
Burberry’s newest September assortment, for instance, noticed models donning the label’s classic examine baseball cap matched with Perspex automotive coats or gabardine trench coat with graffiti prints. Valentino tapped the athleisure development in its Resort 2018 Collection, and launched the VLTN marketing campaign with pop-up shops touring the world. Louis Vuitton’s menswear collaboration with streetwear brands such as Supreme and Fragment Design haven’t solely been the speak of the city, but in addition hit the gross sales jackpot.
“Urban streetwear has influenced high fashion in a big way,” says Anupreet Bhui, WGSN’s senior editor of worldwide road type. “A lot actually started to happen when athleisure made its way into young consumers’ wardrobes. [Young consumers] want 24/7 living solutions for their changing mobile lifestyles.”
For the approaching spring/summer time 2018 seasons, streetwear-inspired fashion is among the largest themes on the runway, from London to Milan and Paris. “Over the last few seasons, this trend has been dominating the runway shows,” says Elizabeth von der Goltz, Net-a-Porter’s international shopping for director. “Last season, luxury brands were interpreting this concept and adding their own signatures.”
Wong additionally reckons that streetwear is infiltrating excessive fashion brands, and says the development has made excessive fashion extra “wearable and approachable with a cool, grunge attitude that never existed before.”
“High fashion used to be driven by designers with years of experience,” she provides. “Now with luxury streetwear pioneers such as Hedi Slimane and Demna Gvasalia, we have seen an increase in distressed denim, logo hoodies and urban influences on luxury fashion runways.”
The development strikes a chord with millennial shoppers, thanks to their digital-savvy way of life.
“The millennial consumer has a growing affinity for streetwear brands,” Bhui says. “With more [young people] finding their voice through Vetements, Off-White, Yeezy by Kanye West and Balenciaga, this is just the start.”
Urban streetwear has influenced excessive fashion in a massive means. So much truly began to occur when athleisure made its method into younger shoppers’ wardrobes
Von der Goltz additionally says the development has been fuelled by millennials as a result of they consider in individualism, and streetwear brands concentrate on their very own particular person type as an alternative of “trying to fit in”.
Incorporating city parts into their runway collections and dealing on collaborations are usually not the one measures adopted by luxurious fashion brands. They have additionally resorted to superstar influence and omnichannel campaigns.
Millennial idols such as Jaden Smith, Gigi Hadid and Lily-Rose Depp have been tapped by luxurious brands due to their tens of millions of followers on social media. Luxury brands have additionally been capitalising on market-specific stars and influencers. Take, for instance, Fendi’s collaboration with Okay-pop star Taeyang, Burberry’s Kris Wu Edit, and Chanel’s sneakers crossover challenge with Pharrell Williams.
“What I can bring to the brand is a more youthful influence,” Kris Wu says. “For a classic brand like Burberry, I want to show people my age that they can also wear the brand in a more urban or street-style way.”
The movie star impact doesn’t cease at product degree, but in addition is available in a full package deal with digital campaigns and offline occasions. One instance is Fendi’s Hong Kong launch of the Taeyang collaboration. The capsule assortment is crammed with city motifs such as slogans and graffiti prints – a type that’s very a lot in sync with the South Korean rapper’s personal wardrobe.
Fendi additionally introduced its “F is For” marketing campaign to Hong Kong to coincide with the launch. The marketing campaign, created by millennials for millennials, included an internet photograph sharing platform as nicely as a touring social gathering that includes worldwide hip-hop acts that travelled from New York to Hong Kong.
Fendi’s worldwide communications director, Cristiana Monfardini, has been working with three of her millennial interns on the “F is For”undertaking, making an attempt to faucet and perceive the youthful era.
“The brand has a rich heritage, but the question is how to find a language that’s relevant to and understandable by the young generation,” Monfardini says. “For me, the best and most authentic way is to work directly with them and create with them.”
Although digital campaigns are essential, Monfardini believes that they’ve to go hand in hand with extra tangible, offline occasions.
Through movie star ambassadors, luxurious brands handle to attain their younger fan base. However, by means of collaborations with streetwear brands, established luxurious homes get to interact with the millennial era shoppers who’re already shopping for into the development and elegance.
Jimmy Choo’s artistic director, Sandra Choi, says the model’s upcoming collaboration with Off-White permits it “to explore a new avenue and take part in a different conversation”. “I love to [have a mix] by working together with a different creative mind. We can combine our synergy and DNA to create a beautiful and surprising collection with unexpected links to the roots of our brand,” Choi provides.
This marriage of latest synergy and heritage is a formulation embraced by Louis Vuitton’s inventive director for males’s collections, Kim Jones, who calls it “Vuitton-ise”. The mastermind behind the extremely profitable Supreme collaboration says that whereas working with different designers can convey new parts to the desk, he’s all the time conscious of the significance of staying true to the Louis Vuitton DNA.
As streetwear and excessive fashion proceed to combine, the important thing to success may lie in how luxurious brands embrace the development with out dropping their very own DNA. Whether the streetwear development itself can proceed to allure the millennial era additionally is dependent upon its future evolution.
“The trend will be here to stay if streetwear manages to evolve and extend beyond logos, hoodies and tees. Streetwear [designers] need to experiment with new categories and aesthetics,” Lane Crawford’s Wong says. “It also means making way for emerging underground designers [so we can have] a breath of fresh air.”